Viewing posts by Mike Lautner
I'm really confused about "sealing" logs vs "allowing to breath". What are you 'sealing' if you still allow moisture in and out of the logs? It's either sealed, or it's not, right? If air can get in and out of the wood, but water can not, you're still effectively sealing in the moisture in. I understand that air can get out, but who cares about air? it's the moisture we are concerned about, right? People paint wood all of the time, and it does not rot beneath the paint because it can't breathe... so why is it so terrible to paint a log? Polyurethane is water repellent, right? But people put poly on every interior surface all the time. Is this bad for the wood? I have a new log home, which is built out of kiln dried eastern white pine. I read a lot about the dangers of painting interior logs because they need to "breathe". But why is there so much focus on 'sealing' and also so commonly coating with polyurethane. Doesn't the "sealing" contradict the "breathing"? I'm looking to paint some of the pine walls to break up the 'wood everywhere' effect. I know this is sacrilege to some folks, but I'd really like to know if I'm going to physically damage my home by applying paint to the interior walls. The exterior will be finished with a proper log finish -- not sure what product yet. Thanks so much for advice.
I am planning to strip the exterior stain from my small 625 square foot log cabin in Colorado, re-stain and apply a topcoat. I'm considering purchasing a 100 lbs Eastwood Pressure Abrasive Blaster using 40/70 crushed glass media. This blaster supports crushed glass and walnut shell but not corncob, and is attractive because of the price and low CFM requirement. Have you had any experience with this type of blaster? Is it suitable for this type of log restoration job?
The home we are purchasing was built in 1980. The inside was sealed but are now really dark can this be stripped and re-sealed? Same with the outside Also has three logs that need to be repaired.
My exterior logs started showing a black sort of powdery substance on it. My home was built in 1990 and I've never had this problem. We use sickens stain and have stained faithfully according to the manufacturer guidelines. Help it looks terrible.
I stained my logs with Sikkens stain. Now I’m considering using chink paint to paint the fake chink grooves. They are 2 inches wide and a 1/4 inch deep. Can I paint over Sikkens stain with chink paint? If so, what kind of prep work and cleaning should I do? Thanks Mark